Author Archive: Brandon

Biking (and surviving) the World’s Most Dangerous Road

Quick aside for a status update: We are currently staying in Cochabamba, Bolivia for the month (already 2 weeks in) where we are volunteering with a couple of local NGO’s. We’ll write more about it soon.

A couple weeks ago, while in La Paz, we took on the task of biking down the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” or “Death Road” as it is also commonly known. This road, with the official name being “North Yungas Road”, is one of the main attractions in the La Paz area. The road is made of mainly dirt/gravel and is approximately 65km long. It connects La Paz with the jungle community of Coroico. What makes the road so dangerous is that its width is essentially one car lane and that it lacks sufficient guard rails. Did I mention that right next to the road are cliffs that feature drops as much as 2000 feet?

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In its heyday, there were many accidents where cars would fall off the side of the road. It is estimated that 200 to 300 people died in accidents every year on the road.

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Thankfully, they ended up building a better paved road that connects La Paz to the jungle community in 2006, so cars don’t frequent the road as much anymore. Pretty much the only cars you will see are the support vans from the various bike companies that are leading tours down the road.

For our ride, we ended up going with Vertigo Biking Tours, who were quite excellent. They equipped us with helments, elbow pads, knee pads, gloves, heavy duty pants, and a jacket. The bikes had pretty good shocks, which was a godsend going down the dirt road. With all the equipment, it definitely eased any worries we may have had. The guide also brought along a camera so that we wouldn’t have to worry about taking photos while we were riding, which was a huge plus.

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While I spent the beginning of this post talking up how dangerous the road was, it wasn’t actually that scary. Granted, there still is some danger involved (particularly with falling off the bike), and you do hear the occasional horror stories of tourists falling off the cliff, but from what we could tell, as long as you are not an idiot (aka taking selfies while you are riding close to the edge) and focus on the road, you were fine.

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All in all, the ride was awesome. It was the most fun I’ve had on a bike ride that I can remember. While we were mainly focused on keeping our bike on the road during the ride, it was hard not to marvel at the expansive views of lush mountains/cliffs out of the corner of our eyes. It started at 4650 meters above sea level where it was snowing. And it ended at 1200 meters above sea level in the rainforest. Most of the ride was downhill, so it wasn’t too intense physically. In total, we were probably riding for 3-4 hours, which included a 20km “warmup” on a paved highway before we started on the “World’s Most Dangerous Road”.

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Guayaquil

We stayed in Guayaquil 3 separate times, usually while on our way to another place in Ecuador, so it is worth mentioning briefly… Guayaquil is Ecuador’s largest city and its main port. It’s a bit of a transportation hub for the country given its location, so it was a natural place to stay while on our way to other places.

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We weren’t terribly adventurous in Guayaquil, with the main purpose of our visits to recharge our batteries before heading onward. Most of our time was spent exploring the area surrounding Malecon 2000 which runs along the Rio Guayas and checking out the colorful Las Penas neighborhood. Outside of that, we laid pretty low.

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Banos de Agua Santa – Hiking, Biking, Swinging, and Amazon’ing

We followed up our adventure-filled trip to the Galapagos Islands with 4 days in the small city of Banos de Agua Santa. Banos is the adventure capital of Ecuador, situated roughly 180 kilometers south of Quito and nestled in the Andes Mountains. The area is quite scenic.

Banos We are a long way from home
On our first full day in town, we went for a hike up the mountains to reach ‘Casa del Arbol’, which is affectionately known as the ‘Swing at the End of the World’. It’s a pretty barebones swing which swings out over the edge of cliff. It was a bit unnerving, but definitely worth it. Although, it was probably the second scariest thing we did that day, with being chased by rabid dogs (salivating at the prospect of taking a bite out of a couple of gringos) while hiking up the mountain coming in at the number one spot.

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Aside from the punk dogs, it was a great hike which yielded some great views of Banos and the general region.

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Our next day was spent riding bikes on a highway that wraps through the Andes. The route we took was known as ‘Ruta de las Cascadas’ (Route of the Wateralls). We took this route for about 25 km, and thankfully much of it was going downhill. It took us by numerous waterfalls which were little side trips off of the main highway.

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Our last full day was spent in the Amazon. Banos is pretty close to the outskirts of the Amazon, so we were able to pretty easily setup a day trip that would take us into the jungle. The day featured a visit to an area where monkeys were being rehabilitated, a visit to a small indigenous village, canoeing down the Rio Puyo, and hiking through the jungle to a waterfall.

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El Cajas National Park

This past weekend we had the pleasure of visiting one of the main attractions in the greater Cuenca area, El Cajas National Park.

El Cajas National Park is located approximately 30km west of Cuenca. It’s full of picturesque mountains, lakes, lagoons, and rolling hills.  The name ‘Cajas’ is apparently derived from the Quichua word “cassa”, which means “gateway to snowy mountains” (thanks Wikipedia). While we did not necessarily come across any snowy mountains, it was beautiful nonetheless.

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We woke up at 6:00 AM, as we had been advised to try to get there earlier than later, to ensure we didn’t get wrapped up into “The Mist”, which Cajas is allegedly notorious for. Apparently on many afternoons, a fog/mist will roll through, making it nearly impossible to see the trail ahead of you. Wanting to avoid such situation, we heeded the warning and arrived early.

Entrance to Cajas

Luckily, with our early arrival, it felt like we had the park to ourselves. Outside of spotting a local ‘pescador’ (fisherman) on one of the many lakes in the park, we didn’t see anybody until we were pretty much back at the park office. We saw more llamas than we did humans, which is a win in my book. Though, I made sure to give them a little space, as I was nearly trampled by a herd of them while on the Inca Trail a couple years ago.

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While the weather wasn’t perfect, it was still a gorgeous hike. All in all, the hike took us approximately 3 hours, and took us through a variety of landscapes. Sometimes through odd looking forests…

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Sometimes through scenic open expanses…

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And sometimes the trail even called for fording rivers…

Fording Rivers

It was a fantastic way to spend a Sunday morning.

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Michigan

After a whirlwind day of packing & moving from our apartment in Chicago, we spent our first full week of fun-employment in my home state, Michigan. Some of the highlights include:

  • Giving Erin a tour of the dense urban environs (this is in fact sarcasm) of the town where I did most of my primary schooling
  • Participating in “Be a Tourist In Your Own Town” and exploring East Lansing / MSU’s campus
  • Climbing the sand dunes at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and hiking around
  • Camping at Sleeping Bear at a spot where Lake Michigan was steps away (apparently we got the most coveted camping spot in all of the park according to the park ranger)
  • Taking in the sunset over Lake Michigan from the dunes
  • Exploring downtown Traverse City and imbibing good beers and cider from local establishments
  • Hanging out with the family
  • And relaxing and doing absolutely nothing productive, save for the strenuous marathon of “The Wire” on Amazon Instant Video that I partook in

Below are a few of the pictures we took from the past week:

Stopping by the MSU Dairy Store for some frozen treats

Stopping by the MSU Dairy Store for some frozen treats

Me looking doofy on the mean streets of my hometown

Me looking doofy on the mean streets of my hometown

View of Lake Michigan from our campsite

View of Lake Michigan from our campsite

Flight of beers from North Peak Brewery in downtown Traverse City

Flight of beers from North Peak Brewery in downtown Traverse City

Flight of 10 hard apple ciders at Northern Natural Cider House

Flight of 10 hard apple ciders at Northern Natural Cider House

A meadow we passed through on our hike

A meadow we passed through on one of our hikes

View of Lake Michigan from the dunes

View of Lake Michigan from the dunes

Watching the sunset over Lake Michigan

Watching the sunset over Lake Michigan

All in all, it was a great way to spend our first full week of freedom. Next up on the docket is the road trip to Erin’s home state of South Dakota, with some pit stops in Iowa and Nebraska.