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Hiking in El Chaltén

From Calafate, we took a 3 hour bus to El Chaltén. Chaltén is a relatively new town – only 20 years old or so – and the sole purpose of the town is a base for hikers. The population is only around 1,500 and there is pretty much one main street with a lot of restaurants, grocery stores, bakeries and lodging on it.

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Instead of renting gear and going backpacking, we decided to just stay in town and do day hikes. All the trails start at the edges of the town, so it’s really easy to just do day trips. The first day we hiked out to Laguna Torre. It was cloudy when we started out, but just as we got into view of the laguna, the clouds cleared and we had a beautiful view of the laguna, glacier and granite towers behind.

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The second day was our longest hike. We did the Tres Lagunas Trail to Mt. Fitz Roy (the iconic El Chaltén mountain). Again, the day started out a bit cloudy with Fitz Roy completely covered. The hike there was pretty easy, except for the last hour that was straight up a rocky hill.

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We got to the top and had high hopes that some of the clouds had disappeared, but no luck. The 2 Lagunas that we visited were both nice, especially Laguna Sucia (“sucia” means dirty which is the opposite of what the turquoise lagoon was).

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We hung around for an hour or so at the top waiting for the clouds to clear but finally gave up and headed back down. And of course when we got down the big rocky hill, the clouds had moved on!

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On our way back to town, we did a detour to check out one of the glaciers in the park.

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On our last day of hiking, we decided to take it easy. We grabbed our Kindles and some lunch and headed up to a lookout over the town with Mt. Fitz Roy in the background and just hung out for the afternoon. It was beautiful!

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El Calafate

After hiking the “W” in Torres del Paine, our next stop in Southern Patagonia was El Calafate. The primary draw of El Calafate is the Perito Moreno glacier. The glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (which is the 2nd largest contiguous extrapolar ice field in the world), and is in Los Glaciares National Park.
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We took a day trip to the glacier from Calafate, which was roughly a 1.5 hour bus ride away. We spent much of the day just watching the glacier. Watching ice may not sound like the most riveting thing to do, but it became a bit of a hobby for Erin and I while in Patagonia.

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You can occasionally catch the glacier calving, which is when chunks of ice fall from the end of the glacier.
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The park featured miles of raised walkways with viewpoints, so that you could view the massive glacier from varying angles.
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We also celebrated Thanksgiving whilst in Calafate, and did so with some delicious Patagonian Lamb.
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Torres del Paine

The day after we got back from Antarctica, we headed towards Puerto Natales, Chile to get ready for our next adventure – hiking the W trail in Torres del Paine National Park.  It took us a full day of busing to get to Puerto Natales and then we spent a day renting gear and buying food before setting off.

The W in Torres del Paine is supposed to be one of the most beautiful hikes in the world and it is definitely the best that we’ve done to date. It is about 75 kilometers and most people hike it in 4 to 5 days and you can start on either side – we decided to do it in 4 days and go west to east.  The first day we spent the morning getting to the park and then took a catamaran to the bottom of the western arm. We set up camp and dropped our gear before hiking up to Grey Glacier, at the top of the arm. The hike started out super windy – 60 KM per hour – but luckily it died down as the afternoon went on.

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Day two we got up and hiked 2 hours to the camp that we would spend the night. We set up our tent and dropped our gear and then headed up the middle section of the W into the Valle Frances (French Valley). This was our favorite day – the views were great and we spent a while just sitting and watching little avalanches happen on the mountain across the valley.

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Day three was a long one – and the first day that we had to carry our packs all day. We hiked from the middle of the W all the way to the eastern tip. The weather was perfect though and the landscape was diverse.

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The last day we got up at 4:30am to hike up to the Torres (towers) to see them at sunrise. Then we packed up camp and hiked back down the east arm of the W to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales.

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The hike was amazing except for one minor issue – my boots fell apart! The right one developed a hole in the sole on day 2 and the bottom of the left completely cracked open on day 3!

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Antarctica – Animals!

We obviously knew that we would see penguins in Antarctica, but I had no idea how many we would see (or that I would be able to identify 3 different types by the end of the trip!). We saw penguins every time we landed and they never got old.

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We had rules about how close we were allowed to get to the animals, but luckily the penguins didn’t have the same rules and were pretty curious. If you just sat there, they would come check you out.

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At the beginning of the summer in Antarctica, the penguins are coming ashore to build nests, find a partner and mate. We saw a lot of penguin lovin’.

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We also saw several different types of seals.

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And whales! (You have to look closely for the water spouting up just left of center)

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One afternoon the ship’s captain spotted a group of orcas off the ship.

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He stopped the ship and dropped all the Zodiacs into the water and we chased after them – and got really close!

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{Photo credit to our friend Emma Capel.  We weren’t quick enough with our camera to catch an up close shot}

We also saw a lot of other birds besides penguins.

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The last day, we did a polar plunge. The water was -2 degrees C and felt it.

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Here’s our last look at the continent as we were sailing away. Although it is supposed to be a “once in a lifetime” trip, we know we’ll be back again someday.DSCN5081

Antarctica – Cruise and Ice

 

Antarctica was a dream destination for us when we were initially planning our South America trip. It was high on both of our bucket lists and was the only continent Brandon had yet to visit. We figured there would be no better time than this trip to be able to travel down there, as we had complete flexibility on time. We initially planned on traveling down to Ushuaia at the END of our trip in late January, and trying to get whatever last minute deal we could find. Mentally, we were prepared for a pretty bare-bones accommodation and ship. However, we ended up lucking out and grabbing a 50% discount on a luxury cruise that was set to leave the first week of November. We had contacted a travel agent in Ushuaia (while we were in Bolivia) to let us know about any sales or last minute deals and she sent us one right before (literally minutes before) our jeep tour of southern Bolivia back in September. The deal was too good to be true so we jumped on it right away and sent her our credit card info and hoped it would all go through. Given the timing and the fact that we were about to be in the middle of nowhere in Southwest Bolivia with no internet for four days, we weren’t optimistic that everything was going to work out.  But as soon as the tour ended we checked our email and we were confirmed!

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The cruise was billed as 12 days, but the first day was just staying in a hotel in Ushuaia and the last day we were back in Ushuaia by 8 am, so it was really only 10 days of cruising. The ship we sailed on was called the Sea Spirit and it was pretty small – only 114 passengers. This was ideal as there are limits on the number of people that can be on land at a given site at a time. It was really, really nice and the food was great – buffets for breakfast and lunch and then a 4 course dinner every night. And it had an open bar (with bottomless cookie jars)! We were in a “superior suite” and it was soooo nice after staying in cheap hostels for months.

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We spent the first 2 days of the cruise sailing through the Drake Passage to Antarctica. The Drake is notorious for bad weather and rough water because it is where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet. The weather out was apparently pretty good – although we both ended up getting sick and spending a lot of time in the cabin. We weren’t the only ones though! When we got up for breakfast the first day, there were empty bags lining all the hand rails around the ship just in case someone needed one fast (which I did later that morning).

In the Drake we obviously couldn’t get off the ship so the expedition staff gave presentations. The staff was really great and had experts on all things Antarctica. There were glacier, sea mammal, bird and history experts. So before (and on the trip back) we learned about what we were going to see (or had seen). The talks were great and really interesting.

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After 2 days of rough waters and not much to see (besides albatrosses) we were really excited to finally see land!

First Sight of Land

When we were actually in Antarctica for 5 and a half days, each of those days we typically did 2 excursions. The excursions were taking a Zodiac (small boat) to land and exploring, doing a cruise on a Zodiac around an area or doing a combo of a Zodiac cruise and a landing. We were the first cruise of the season so even though the expedition staff had plans everyday for us, they never quite knew what was awaiting us as we went to different areas around the Antarctic Peninsula.

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The landscape was absolutely beautiful and everyday we saw glaciers, icebergs and snow-covered mountains.

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Make sure to look at the next post for all our penguin, whale and seal pictures!